Showing posts with label buttons. Show all posts
Showing posts with label buttons. Show all posts

Saturday, 15 June 2013

Patch jacket


 
Sometimes a project starts out planning to be one thing, but ends up as quite another thing altogether.

Remember the Wilderness Janker? after washing, it fit Crazy Jake like an Alexei Sayle jacket (buttons popping and sleeves too short) so I got to keep it instead. There can only be one Wilderness jacket so we thought of patches for the next one, and I went 2 sizes up.

It took some time to source appropriately themed fabrics - coffee, cameras, bicycles, skiing, handwriting, backpacking, camping, typewriters, pens, stamps, postmarks, maps, cassette tapes and biscuits. This might be my favourite phase of the project (the collecting/hoarding phase) and I possibly got carried away. Somewhere along the line I also realised I was straying from the original concept of a patch smoking/ lounge jacket but felt I had rather passed the point of no return...

...later when watching the Hobbit, Jake confided wistfully that this was what he meant by patches:
Bilbo patch smoking jacket in The Hobbit
 Fortunately we both agreed that the Hobbit movie would popularise the concept of patch smoking jackets so much that all major fashion outlets would soon be selling crappy versions on the theme and then it would no longer be a desirable thing to own a patch smoking jacket.

So with renewed confidence that no-one anywhere was going to have anything like what I was making, I pressed on...
Stitching in the sunshine
It wouldn't be a Thimble project if everything went swimmingly, so despite by best intentions to cut the lining with room to spare, by the time I had hand-quilted (yes that is right - HAND QUILTED) the shell repeat pattern, there was a deficit at the edges.

Luckily I am master of the work-around because I always make mistakes, so I fashioned a yoke in the lining and sewed plain bias binding to 2 different types of trimming so it was wide enough to cover the lining - even at the sleeve attachments. It looks that good, could almost be worn inside out ...

Finally these beautiful buttons from Tinker Tailor buttons via the Woolclip are just perfect to finish it off.

Monday, 11 March 2013

Something old, something new

Due to a recent bout of frenetic stitching, my marvelous Maureen machine (technologically advanced) has gone on strike, getting stuck in bobbin mode. It was probably making a stand, having been long overdue a service, and to add insult to injury it had been recently subjected to a Thimble repair job. Not sure how I ended up with extra screws and washers after putting it back together...

Luckily waiting in the wings we have this little lovely...
Janome Novum De Luxe Mark III with vintage thread from the Maureen stash



This Janome Novum de luxe mark III was an Oxfam Christmas present and I believe it might be from the 1950s or 60s. Not only is it a beautiful design but 60 years on and it runs like a dream, without a hint of senility. There are little hidey holes for the bobbin case and the inner mechanisms. I can't get over the fact it takes today's needles - no built in obsolescence there. The bulb works so I hope it is still possible to get replacements. It weighs an absolute tonne.
Janome Novum de luxe marke III instruction book





















Fabric from Frumble http://www.frumble.co.uk/
Lining: cleaning cloth
I thought it a fitting juxtaposition that the first project on my new old Janome (as opposed to my old new Janome, which is having much needed rest and recuperation) has been to make a cover for my ever so 21st century tablet. The lining is a lint-free polishing cloth, so greasy fingerprints are lifted in the taking out and putting away. Clever eh?

Detachable cleaning cloth
Even cleverer or possibly getting a bit carried away is a back up polishing cloth with press stud on ribbon (the ribbon from Temporary Measure having been squirreled away waiting for just such an opportunity).

It wanted a pocket for its lead but I wanted to avoid squishing or scratching any delicate bits, so a bottom zip pocket was the order of the day.

Button by Charlotte Morrison
Last but not least, a decorative pointing hand button (Charlotte Morrison).

....too much?


*Link to Novum 3 Instruction Booklet*



Sunday, 3 March 2013

Gussets

Man's Aran cardigan after a good few wears
Rowan Pure Wool Family Collection
One day I will hopefully get to finish a sweater without there being something ever so slightly or ever so majorly flawed about the finished piece. Ever the optimist, each time it happens, I just think how much more experienced I am getting with every mistake.

Pictured in grey is the man cardigan I recently finished, from the Rowan Pure Wool Family Collection. The request was for 'one of these in merino'...

After too much time going google-eyed looking for a fine merino Aran weight wool with similar knitting tension gauge and suitable colour and price (the other twisted thing about flaws being the more expensive the raw ingredients, the more painful the flaw and the more temptation to shamefacedly throw it in the bin because looking at it is a constant reminder of profligacy and overestimation of one's crafting ability), I settled on Debbie Bliss Rialto Aran in grey, which I found on sale.

I wish I had known about Ravelry back then, I might have checked out the properties of this wool before committing. Don't get me wrong, it is a beautiful wool, soft and warm and a pleasure to knit with. It does pill on wearing but nothing a bit of de-bobbling won't sort every so often. The tricky thing is the stretchiness of Debbie Bliss Rialto Aran on washing.

Determined at the outset to avoid disasters, I think I even did a tension gauge swatch before knitting (learning from the cape fiasco), and measured the subject and measured again after christmas mince pie season...So when a year later (I am easily distracted) it came to the sewing up, I was dismayed to find the jacket to be just a little too snug in the chest department, the subject not having expanded in any appreciable form.

Not to worry, Techknitter to the rescue. What we had was an emergency gusset situation.



Gussets using Techknitter technique
Gusset in situ
How gusset might appear when lifting arms aloft
A gusset  is a 'triangular or rhomboid piece of fabric inserted into a seam to add breadth or reduce stress from tight-fitting clothing'.

It was a bit fiddly sewing them in and I would have liked a neater finish but they certainly did the job and BEFORE WASHING (bw) this was a perfectly fitted man's cardigan.

After washing (aw) we seemed to have an entirely different beast. Thinking that wool is wool is wool and wool generally shrinks on drying, I washed and blocked and hand-dried flat.

Imagine my dismay when I discovered aw that the arms had increased in length by about a third (!!!) and the gussets were NO LONGER NECESSARY, the chest having 'relaxed' on washing. I wasn't relaxed. Absobloodylutely no way am I taking those gussets out.

At that point I discovered Ravelry and read a most interesting Debbie bliss Rialto Aran discussion
which had the following comments, 'This stuff blooms like crazy during blocking! It really spreads and becomes much more drapey', and my personal favourite, 'Nice to knit, but grows faster than a puppy after you wash it.' Someone recommended tumble drying which did work, though that encouraged pilling.

Buttons from TextileGarden
On the plus side, it must be comfy and warm because it has been worn lots this February but I admit I do get sad when I see the sleeves rolled up like a jam roly-poly. I did find the perfect buttons though, from TextileGarden.

I wonder if next time I should wash the pieces before making up, thus avoiding any unnecessary though not uninteresting forays into the world of gusseting....


Sunday, 26 June 2011

Some lucky finds at Woolfest

Had a pretty good time at the Woolfest this year. What a feast of colour and texture.

I have visions of a future spent spinning by the fire in winter, harvesting plants for hand-dyeing yarns in spring and summer, then knitting/weaving/crocheting wonderful things in autumn...just have to get that tension right and I know I could be a really good knitter....

Anyway, am finding it a little difficult to focus on the Mandala quilt today as I am too excited about my lucky finds at Woolfest:
Buttons:

Slate buttons!!! Totally impractical for regular button holes but really quite fabulous.


I think they are Welsh slate, but could just as easily be Cumbrian.

Also, I think I have stumbled on THE BEST BUTTON SHOP IN THE WORLD: The Textile Garden - this stall was so popular that I had to sharpen my elbows to get to the trestles. Then I wanted just about every button.

I have no project in mind for buttons but that doesn't really matter. I am contemplating becoming a button collector.

Buttons from Textile Garden
Border from Textile Garden
They also have the most beautiful embroidered borders. Just look at these others on sale :



and then there was The Natural Dye Studio: 
Beautiful crochet and Bluefaced Leicester wool: I spotted a lovely granny square crochet scarf on the series Jericho so was delighted to find a pattern to make my own crocheted scarf, plus the wool which is beautiful and so soft. They also had an amazing crocheted blanket on display- I have bought the pattern but just have to improve my crochet technique before I try that one.
Jericho crochet scarf
Queenies SABINE crochet scarf
Bluefaced Leicester wool for scarf


Bessies CIRCLES blanket
 and finally, vintage knitting:
A Stitch In Time (Vol. 1) Vintage Knitting & Crochet Patterns 1920-1949 : Volume 1
by Jane Waller and Susan Crawford
Published by Arbour House Publishing Ltd
ISBN No: 978-0-9556206-2-1


Knitted bathing suits!! and so many more wonderful patterns. Having inherited some splendid vintage patterns from my great aunt, this book appealed. Watch this space, project 6052...